Mary Allen
Individually Or In Groups?
First and foremost, the rabbit should never be kept alone. A human cannot meet a rabbit’s social needs. The rabbit quickly gets bored and gets used to behavior that is not typical for its species and becomes aggressive or lethargic. Often the owner does not even recognize these changes because the beloved pet is silently suffering.
Animals that complement each other well in their behavior are suitable for keeping in groups (at least 2 rabbits). The size of the rabbits plays a subordinate role. For example, two dominant animals will certainly bring their owners little joy, as will two submissive animals, which can sometimes become very nervous because they lack a leader. If animals are already available, you should observe them carefully and then try to find animals whose character fits well into the existing group or your rabbit. It is generally true that rabbits that get along well as puppies can become “uncomfortable” after puberty, even if they are littermates.
Partner Choice In Groups Of Two
The ideal combination for keeping two rabbits as pets is a castrated male with a female. This combination corresponds most closely to the natural way of life of rabbits and is often stable over a long period of time. Two bucks are another possibility. In that case, however, both animals should definitely be castrated before sexual maturity (small breeds about 3 months, large breeds about 4-5 months – Source: KE Quesenberry, JW Carpenter; “Ferrets, Rabbits, and Rodents”). Keeping two females as a small group can very often be associated with difficulties, because here, in the course of sexual maturity, there are often massive ranking problems, which can sometimes result in serious bite injuries.
Partner Choice For Larger Groups
Groups in which the number of males and females is balanced are often relatively quiet. The more females live in a group, the more frequently ranking problems among the females are observed.
Socialization With Other Animals
All animals prefer to live with conspecifics. In the past, rabbits and guinea pigs were often kept together for a variety of reasons. This is strongly discouraged. They don’t do anything to each other, but that’s the only argument for such a flat-sharing community. Rabbits and guinea pigs have completely different ways of communicating. If a rabbit lives more or less mute and only makes noises when there is danger or pain, guinea pigs are pure “chatterboxes”. As you can imagine, this difference alone can cause confusion and uncertainty among the animals.
Because of their size, rabbits are superior to guinea pigs. They know that too and quickly realize that they cannot defend themselves. In the pack of guinea pigs, subordinate animals must stand still and allow themselves to be sniffed or touched. For example, guinea pigs can be calmly cleaned by rabbits, which many people misunderstand and tend to say: “They cuddle so nicely!”
Rabbits and cats or dogs can harmonize wonderfully, but unfortunately also often lead to a (for the rabbit) deadly acquaintanceship. If you are unsure about the behavior of your cat/dog towards smaller pets, make sure that the rabbit enclosure is well locked.
Inside Or Outside?
This question should be carefully considered and answered first when purchasing rabbits.
Housing
A big advantage of keeping an apartment is certainly the close contact that you develop with your pet. This means that the roommates can also be observed well. In this way, changes and diseases are usually recognized very early. However, the size of an indoor enclosure is important.
Decorative small animal cages, which are offered in specialist shops, are usually too small. If rabbits are only to be allowed to run about in the apartment/garden by the hour, you must plan for a floor space of 2 m²/animal (for larger breeds 3 m²) when choosing a cage. This sounds like a lot at first, but when you imagine how rabbits live in nature, it is easy to understand. You should also note that rabbits move forward by hopping and jumping, so allow for a height of at least 50 cm. Since the dimensions mentioned are only very seldom met in a commercially available cage, a homemade enclosure with a little manual skill and imagination is the most original and species-appropriate way to enable your grumpy little ones to live a happy life. Successful and sophisticated building instructions can be found on the Internet, among other places.
Low-dust shavings made from untreated wood are suitable as bedding. Straw is only suitable as a toy because it does not have sufficient suction power, your rabbit sits wet with it and there is a strong odor after just one day. When running out in the apartment, the rabbit must not have access to power cables and sockets. Poisonous houseplants must be removed or placed at a height where the rabbit cannot reach. When it comes to your furniture, don’t be sad if a piece is missing, because rabbits will nibble on anything they can get their teeth on. It is better to build a small fence.
Free Range
Again, size matters. But weather protection must not be neglected either. Free-range is certainly the most species-appropriate way of keeping rabbits. However, there are breeds that are not suitable for being kept outside all year round, as they do not develop a protective winter coat, or only do so too little (e.g. Rex rabbits, lion heads, teddy dwarfs, Angora rabbits…). You can get your rabbits used to keep them outside from mid-May – at the earliest, however, when there is no more ground frost at night – until the end of August at the latest. You should slowly get the animals used to the new food supply (meadow) by feeding them small portions of fresh greens a few days before moving.
The outdoor enclosure is best equipped with several shelters, which should also be insulated against the cold and wet. To protect against birds of prey, cats, and dogs, we recommend a cover from above. You can also find numerous building instructions on the Internet or in the relevant specialist literature.